Passau is a small town of 50,000, with supposedly 5 breweries and 50 churches. It is an ancient settlement at the confluence of three rivers, the Danube, the Inn and the Ilz. In the second half of the fifth century, Saint Severinus established a monastery here.
We visited St. Paul’s Church, which has unusual dark wood and marble against white walls. It is the oldest parish church in Passau.
We took a long walk along the rivers, where there is no rail or wall between the walkway and the river, so there are many lifebuoys and long hooks, just in case you need to rescue someone.
This was our last night on the ship, so we had a captain’s cocktail hour and delicious dinner with friends we had met on the cruise who are from San Diego.
Tomorrow we take the coach for 3 hours to Prague.
Monday, April 30, 2018
Saturday, April 28, 2018
LInz, Austria
On Friday, we toured the town of Linz, Austria. Linz was once an industrial city, plagued by pollution. Today, that industry has become technology, and it is a very clean city. Our guide took us first to their new Concert Hall near the rail station. The location was chosen to be the city’s “living room”, similar to our Pioneer Square in Portland. It is a park and a gathering spot. The concert hall is immense, built five years ago, with, of course, the best technology. The seats have screens with translated subtitles, plus the menu to choose your drink for the intermission! We saw the main stage and its backstage, the orchestra rehearsal hall, an improvisation concert hall, and other small performance areas than can be closed off, or opened to a lounge and bar area.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral (lot of St. Stephens on this tour) is filled with windows that tell the cultural and political history of Linz and Austria.
We then walked to a nearby coffee shop to try the famed Linzer torte, which was not what I was expecting. It is more of a cinnamon coffee cake. We also had coffee.
The coach picked us up to take us about 25 minutes up into the hills to a cider farm. The owner served us two ciders, one pear/apple and the other pear. He also distillés schnapps from apricots, cherries and walnuts, which we sampled. The cherry was our favorite. They served us lunch, a plate of ham, roast pork, boiled eggs (the yolks are ultra-yellow because the hens eat dandelions!), lettuce, tomatoes, two cheeses, potato salad, pickles, onions, horseradish. All of the foods are from the farm, which has goats and rabbits, and several bee hives. Canola (rapeseed) grows on the nearby fields, and is a bright yellow now.
We asked our guide if Austria exported any products to America. She said, “Yes, we exported a fellow from the town next to where I was born. His name was Arnold Schwarzenegger. :)
Only one more full day on the ship. Tomorrow we go to Passau, Germany.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral (lot of St. Stephens on this tour) is filled with windows that tell the cultural and political history of Linz and Austria.
We then walked to a nearby coffee shop to try the famed Linzer torte, which was not what I was expecting. It is more of a cinnamon coffee cake. We also had coffee.
The coach picked us up to take us about 25 minutes up into the hills to a cider farm. The owner served us two ciders, one pear/apple and the other pear. He also distillés schnapps from apricots, cherries and walnuts, which we sampled. The cherry was our favorite. They served us lunch, a plate of ham, roast pork, boiled eggs (the yolks are ultra-yellow because the hens eat dandelions!), lettuce, tomatoes, two cheeses, potato salad, pickles, onions, horseradish. All of the foods are from the farm, which has goats and rabbits, and several bee hives. Canola (rapeseed) grows on the nearby fields, and is a bright yellow now.
We asked our guide if Austria exported any products to America. She said, “Yes, we exported a fellow from the town next to where I was born. His name was Arnold Schwarzenegger. :)
Only one more full day on the ship. Tomorrow we go to Passau, Germany.
Thursday, April 26, 2018
Melk, Austria
Thursday we spent in Melk, Austria. In the morning we visited Nikolaihof winery. It is the oldest winery in Austria, occupying an ancient Roman site that has been in existence for almost 2000 years! The large oak casks are housed in the cellar of the ancient chapel. Fascinating! It is a biodynamic winery, with no herbicides, fertilizers, pesticides or synthetic sprays used in the vineyards. Grapes are harvested by hand. The younger generation has created a line of skin care made from grape seeds. The grounds are lovely, and we tasted three wines - white is the only kind they make. We were served one of the wines at dinner last evening, also.
In the afternoon, we visited Melk Abbey, a Benedictine abbey overlooking the picturesque town of Melk and the Danube. The abbey was founded in 1089. The monastic library is famous for its extensive manuscript collection; a few books or pages are displayed at a time. Beautiful work. The abbey that is there today was built in the 1700s. We were not allowed to photograph inside or in the church, which has to be the gildedest worship space we have ever seen! Many art pieces are also on display in the abbey, as well as ancient vestments, etc. There is a school in the abbey, with about 1000 coed students.
Overnight we sailed to Linz, Austria, where we will tour the town and also a cider farm. Some of the group are instead going by coach to Salzburg (2.5 hours away). We opted not to spend 5 hours on the coach, so are staying in Linz.
In the afternoon, we visited Melk Abbey, a Benedictine abbey overlooking the picturesque town of Melk and the Danube. The abbey was founded in 1089. The monastic library is famous for its extensive manuscript collection; a few books or pages are displayed at a time. Beautiful work. The abbey that is there today was built in the 1700s. We were not allowed to photograph inside or in the church, which has to be the gildedest worship space we have ever seen! Many art pieces are also on display in the abbey, as well as ancient vestments, etc. There is a school in the abbey, with about 1000 coed students.
Overnight we sailed to Linz, Austria, where we will tour the town and also a cider farm. Some of the group are instead going by coach to Salzburg (2.5 hours away). We opted not to spend 5 hours on the coach, so are staying in Linz.
Wednesday, April 25, 2018
Btatislava and Vienna
Tuesday morning, we stopped in Bratislava, Slovakia, a charming town with beautiful buildings, courtyards, parks and memorials. After returning to the ship, we had the opportunity to participate in Viennese waltz lessons, led by a charming young couple. We need a lot more practice, but truly enjoyed the class.
Meanwhile, we sailed to Vienna, where we departed the ship to attend a private Strauss and Mozart concert presented by professional musicians and singers. This was a highlight of our cruise so far. Magnificent music in a beautiful old concert hall. When we returned to the ship after 10 p.m., we were offered a “snack” of wieners, pretzels, soup, etc.
On Wednesday, we participated in a 3 hour walking tour, again “Do as the Locals Do”, of Vienna’s old city center, beginning at the Museum of Arts, which is in one of the palace buildings belonging to the Habsburgs who ruled for many years. Gorgeous building, as well as an amazing collection of Peter Paul Rubens’ work and many others. One of the most fascinating items we saw was a golden ‘salt cellar”created by Benvenuto Cellini in 1543.. It was actually a small mechanized sculpture made of gold. It was wound up and traveled randomly around the center of the dining table. One of the small figures on the cellar, Neptune, threw his triton, and whoever’s place it landed on had to say something witty about mythology, and then something clever to entertain the other dinner guests. It is valued at $68 million!
On our tour, we also sampled the famous Viennese coffee at Gerstner’s, inside another palace, and stopped at a sausage kiosk with a wonderful variety of sausages - cheese, smoked and spicy. Our walking tour took us to St. Stephen’s cathedral, and by a house where Mozart once lived in an apartment.
Too little time in Vienna - what a beautiful city!
Meanwhile, we sailed to Vienna, where we departed the ship to attend a private Strauss and Mozart concert presented by professional musicians and singers. This was a highlight of our cruise so far. Magnificent music in a beautiful old concert hall. When we returned to the ship after 10 p.m., we were offered a “snack” of wieners, pretzels, soup, etc.
On Wednesday, we participated in a 3 hour walking tour, again “Do as the Locals Do”, of Vienna’s old city center, beginning at the Museum of Arts, which is in one of the palace buildings belonging to the Habsburgs who ruled for many years. Gorgeous building, as well as an amazing collection of Peter Paul Rubens’ work and many others. One of the most fascinating items we saw was a golden ‘salt cellar”created by Benvenuto Cellini in 1543.. It was actually a small mechanized sculpture made of gold. It was wound up and traveled randomly around the center of the dining table. One of the small figures on the cellar, Neptune, threw his triton, and whoever’s place it landed on had to say something witty about mythology, and then something clever to entertain the other dinner guests. It is valued at $68 million!
On our tour, we also sampled the famous Viennese coffee at Gerstner’s, inside another palace, and stopped at a sausage kiosk with a wonderful variety of sausages - cheese, smoked and spicy. Our walking tour took us to St. Stephen’s cathedral, and by a house where Mozart once lived in an apartment.
Too little time in Vienna - what a beautiful city!
Monday, April 23, 2018
Just another day in Budapest
Yesterday, we left our hotel for the Uniworld cruise ship, the S.S. Maria Theresa, named after the mother of Marie Antoinette. The ship has been described as “the love child that might result from a liaison between Liberace and Marie Antoinette”. Actually, it is very tasteful gaudiness. Everyone needs a little sparkle, and there are mirrors everywhere. The color theme is blue, so easy on the eyes. One day when we are in a great wifi area, I will be able to post pictures. Meanwhile, if you have access to me or Bobby on Facebook, you will see a few images there. I don’t know why posting on Facebook is so easy, and on the blog is impossible.
Dinner last evening was fabulous, especially the dessert which was Chocolate. Peanut Butter. Bacon. Bar. With caramel sauce. And popcorn ice cream. Imagine kettle corn ice cream. It was wonderful.
The room has plenty of storage. Amazing, since the size of the room is not great. We do have a small balcony for viewing the world going by. We are meeting many wonderful people; seems like half are from California! But also some from South Africa, Taiwan, Singapore, etc.
Last evening, the Captain repositioned the ship so that we could view Parliament, churches, and bridges that are totally lit at night. It was breathtaking.
The weather has been perfect! In the 70’s. This morning a guide took us on a “do as the locals do” walking tour. We also traveled by subway (very new and modern) and tram (streetcar). We visited the great food market, and saw paprika peppers, etc. Small farmers bring their produce here to sell. Just like your local farmer’s market. Speaking of paprika, we have had it in soup, beef, chicken and relish dishes. We are liking it!
Our guide is very interested in architecture, and there were a lot of beautiful buildings built in the late 19th and early 20th century. When communism and nazism ruled, most of the construction was quite ugly. The older buildings are now being restored.
Tonight is the Captain’s Welcome Reception and Dinner, which is a dressy affair, with an even more fancy dinner. Looking forward to seeing what is offered.
A surprise thunderstorm came in this afternoon, catching some of the walking tours by surprise. No rain had been predicted.
From the time I write this until the time I get a notice in my email, as you do, it is about 24 hours.
About 30 minutes ago, we started sailing from Budapest to Bratislava, Slovakia, which is our next stop. See you tomorrow.
Comments are encouraged, as that lets me know this actually reaching you. Thanks!
Dinner last evening was fabulous, especially the dessert which was Chocolate. Peanut Butter. Bacon. Bar. With caramel sauce. And popcorn ice cream. Imagine kettle corn ice cream. It was wonderful.
The room has plenty of storage. Amazing, since the size of the room is not great. We do have a small balcony for viewing the world going by. We are meeting many wonderful people; seems like half are from California! But also some from South Africa, Taiwan, Singapore, etc.
Last evening, the Captain repositioned the ship so that we could view Parliament, churches, and bridges that are totally lit at night. It was breathtaking.
The weather has been perfect! In the 70’s. This morning a guide took us on a “do as the locals do” walking tour. We also traveled by subway (very new and modern) and tram (streetcar). We visited the great food market, and saw paprika peppers, etc. Small farmers bring their produce here to sell. Just like your local farmer’s market. Speaking of paprika, we have had it in soup, beef, chicken and relish dishes. We are liking it!
Our guide is very interested in architecture, and there were a lot of beautiful buildings built in the late 19th and early 20th century. When communism and nazism ruled, most of the construction was quite ugly. The older buildings are now being restored.
Tonight is the Captain’s Welcome Reception and Dinner, which is a dressy affair, with an even more fancy dinner. Looking forward to seeing what is offered.
A surprise thunderstorm came in this afternoon, catching some of the walking tours by surprise. No rain had been predicted.
From the time I write this until the time I get a notice in my email, as you do, it is about 24 hours.
About 30 minutes ago, we started sailing from Budapest to Bratislava, Slovakia, which is our next stop. See you tomorrow.
Comments are encouraged, as that lets me know this actually reaching you. Thanks!
Saturday, April 21, 2018
21 April 2018
Breakfast was a beautiful buffet in the hotel. I had porridge, probably the best yogurt (in a small jar) I have ever had, many pastries, fruit, etc.
The Parliament is a beautiful building that rivals cathedrals and castles we have seen in other places. The Crown Jewels are here, plus a lot of gorgeous architecture, windows, lighting, etc.
Hello from Budapest! Or Szia in Hungarian. It is 8 p.m. on Saturday as I write this. Hôtel wifi is too slow to load photos at this point, so will try later. Those are the Parliament chambers above.
We left Portland around 3 p.m. Thursday, and after 3 plane rides totaling over 14 hours, we got to our hotel about 8 p.m. last night. Great flights. Hairy connection in Istanbul where we had about 45 minutes to make our connection, which was what seemed a mile from where we arrived. But we made it! Turkish Air has great food, by the way!
Great hotel in Budapest, the Hotel Corinthia, where we booked the Uniworld Cruise extension so that we would have a couple of recovery days. We go to the ship on Sunday, 22 April.
Budapest (and Hungary) has been controlled by many regimes, so there is much sad history here. They are now led by a Prime Minister, with a President as the figurehead.
Breakfast was a beautiful buffet in the hotel. I had porridge, probably the best yogurt (in a small jar) I have ever had, many pastries, fruit, etc.
We did a walking tour with a Uniworld guide named Romulus Varga, who was born in Transylvania, formerly a part of Hungary. He had much cultural and political knowledge to share as we did a walking tour of the Parliament and Liberty Square. One of his more humorous stories was about the first McDonald’s that opened in Budapest prior to the fall of communism. It was considered an honor to be invited on a date to McDonald’s! On a more somber note, we walked by the monument of iron shoes which commemorates Jews shot on the edge of the Danube.
The Parliament is a beautiful building that rivals cathedrals and castles we have seen in other places. The Crown Jewels are here, plus a lot of gorgeous architecture, windows, lighting, etc.
Liberty Square contains monuments (Ronald Reagan, General Harry Bandholtz, etc.), and is fronted by the American Embassy.
We stopped at a cafe for cappuccino, truffle cake and dobosh torte. Yum.
The Hotel Spa was calling, so we both got massages in this beautiful place. Then nap time, trying to get back some of that sleep we missed when we were hurtling nine hours into the future.
We took a walk through the neighboring streets of cafes and shops, with a stop for drinks (booze is very cheap here) before dinner at the hotel. The Chicken Paprikash with Schupfnudel (potato dumplings) was fantastic.
Let us know you got this first installment by leaving a comment.
Monday, April 16, 2018
On 19 April 2018, we will fly to Budapest, Hungary to begin a cruise on the Uniworld Maria Theresa. The cruise begins on 22 April, so we will have a couple of days to un-jet lag and explore Budapest on our own. Budapest is the largest city and capital of Hungary, and is the combination of the cities of Buda on the west side of the Danube River and Pest on the east side. Our cruise is ten days long, and ends in Prague, where we will stay an extra day before flying home to Portland.
Join us as we journey on the beautiful Danube!
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